Here are the patina recipes covered: Ammonia, Vinegar & Salt Vinegar & Salt Liver of Sulfur / Sulphur Peanut Oil Fake Patina. (And yes, I know that my hatchet does not have a real hamon. In this video, I show you five easy copper patinas, ranging from dark to vibrant blue.
You can see that the lines on my bushcraft knife are much thicker, because I left the mustard on it for a longer period of time. That is because I didn't leave the mustard on quite long enough. In tinning zinc by this process, the ammonia alum may be replaced by any other kind of alum, or aluminum sulphate may be used alone experience has shown. The main visual difference you can see between my fake and the real hamon is the depth of the line. Rinse well and dry the silver with a microfiber cloth. Keep moving to a clean area of the cloth as tarnish is transferred. Dip a soft cloth in the paste and gently rub it on the silver. For a quick polish, make a paste of baking soda and water. In other words: Part of the blade is harder than the other part, and the intersection point between hard and soft steel is marked by a very classy looking line. Use chalk or silica bags in the storage area to help absorb moisture that can speed tarnish development. The change of hardness in the metal is visible in a dark line running across the blade the hamon. The blade would end up with a very hard cutting edge, and a soft spine and back. Japanese smiths would coat the spine and the back of their blades with a clay mixture which, when quenched, caused the part of the blade coated with clay to cool down much slower than the bare metal. A real hamon line is created during the heat treatment of the steel. Well, the difference is actually pretty big. By this time some of you (the newbies) are probably wondering what the difference is between this hamon-looking-line I just created, and the real deal.
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